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Cycling from Lido di Camaiore: from the coast to the Via Francigena and the hills

Versilia and surroundings 11 min read
The seafront promenade and the pier of Lido di Camaiore seen from the balcony of a room at Hotel La Vela

In recent years, cycle touring, or simply having a bike on holiday, has become an ever more popular choice for Italians and international visitors alike. Healthy, eco-friendly ways of getting around are now preferred, which explains the growing attention paid to two-wheeled mobility in towns and in the countryside. In line with this trend, Lido di Camaiore turns out to be a perfect destination for this kind of holiday, because it is extremely flat and well connected to the main places of interest. Whether you are seasoned cyclists, families with children or simply enthusiasts, in this guide you will find everything you need to make the most of your holiday in Versilia in the saddle.

You will discover that our town, despite its reputation as a seaside resort, is much more than a beach destination: it is a concentration of beautiful and varied landscapes that follow one another within just a few kilometres.

To help you enjoy our area to the full, we have put together three routes with different levels of difficulty: a very easy one along the coast, a medium-easy one through the historic countryside and a more demanding one heading towards the first peaks. Whatever your level of fitness, the bike will take you along paths that would otherwise stay hidden.

You will ride from wide beaches to lush pinewoods, through the elegant seaside towns and the fragrant countryside of Pianore, right up to the striking rock faces. You will come across crystal-clear streams and little waterfalls where you can refresh yourself, as well as historic villas, old olive mills, watermills and stone bridges, ancient witnesses to the history of Camaiore that rise out of nature like forgotten statues.

In short

  • Route 1, the coast (easy): the seafront cycle path towards Forte dei Marmi (about 21 km there and back, 2 hours with stops) or towards the Viareggio Passeggiata (about 10 km there and back, 1 hour). City bikes, e-bikes, roller skates and scooters.
  • Route 2, the Via Francigena (medium-easy): from the countryside of Capezzano Pianore to the historic centre of Camaiore, on tarmac and gravel; with the climb to Montemagno it is 18 km one way and 300 metres of climbing, about 2 hours. Gravel, mountain, trekking or e-bikes.
  • Route 3, the hills (medium-hard): from Montemagno to the viewpoint of Pitoro, down to Massarosa and back across the plain: about 20 km on tarmac, 2.5 hours. Together with route 2 it makes a loop of about 40 km with 400 metres of climbing. Road, gravel or e-bikes.
  • Start: Hotel La Vela, on the Lido di Camaiore seafront opposite the Pontile Bellavista Vittoria pier: the cycle path is a few steps away, on the other side of the road.

Route 1: the coastal cycle path to Forte dei Marmi and Viareggio

  • Level: easy
  • Setting: coast

This is where the first route begins, the easy one, with practically no climbing: ideal for Sunday cyclists, families with children or anyone who wants to warm up before heading for the hills. You can use city bikes or e-bikes, but the route is also suitable for roller skates and scooters.

The starting point is our Hotel La Vela. Just outside, you will find yourself a few steps from the cycle path. To reach it, simply cross the road at the zebra crossing, leaving the outline of the Pontile Bellavista Vittoria pier on your left.

Heading north: Parco della Versiliana and Forte dei Marmi

Pedalling north you head towards Forte dei Marmi, with the row of beach clubs on your left and the mighty Apuan Alps on your right. After a few kilometres, take a short detour to visit Parco della Versiliana: stop for a while and look around. An ancient wood of pines and holm oaks awaits you, with lush undergrowth alternating with sunny clearings and charming streams, a relaxing and unique landscape considered one of the symbols of Versilia.

Carrying on, after about 10 kilometres Forte dei Marmi appears, an icon of Versilian style and elegance. Here you will find yourself immersed in an old-world atmosphere evoked by the stately early 20th-century architecture. Among the stops not to miss are the historic pier stretching out to sea and the famous 18th-century Fortino, around which the centre unfolds with its boutiques, tree-lined gardens and picturesque corners. This option takes about 2 hours there and back, for about 21 kilometres in total, stops included.

The pier at Forte dei Marmi with its white railings, a few anglers and, in the background, the beach and the Apuan Alps
The pier at Forte dei Marmi, with the Apuan Alps in the background.

Heading south: the Viareggio Passeggiata

If you feel like visiting Viareggio, take the cycle path south: after about a kilometre and a half the path will lead you straight along the famous Passeggiata, the seafront promenade. Riding between the beach and the Art Nouveau architecture you can enjoy historic landmarks such as the Chalet Martini, the little villa from 1899 that escaped the fire which destroyed the old Passeggiata in 1917, the Gran Caffè Margherita, once frequented by Giacomo Puccini, and Bagno Balena, one of the oldest beach clubs in Viareggio. This ride covers 10 kilometres there and back and takes about 1 hour.

The Art Nouveau facade of the Gran Caffè Margherita on the Viareggio promenade, with its two majolica-clad turrets and tables under the umbrellas
The Gran Caffè Margherita, on the Viareggio Passeggiata.

Take a little care at the crossings and on the stretches where the path is shared with pedestrians, especially with children. It is a good idea to bring water and sun cream.

Route 2: along the Via Francigena to the first hills of Montemagno

  • Level: medium-easy
  • Setting: countryside and hills

The second route is for cyclists with a little experience. We leave beach clubs and umbrellas behind, take the cycle path along via del Secco and cross the Via Aurelia, then follow the signs with the bicycle symbol until we find ourselves in the countryside of Capezzano Pianore, the farming hamlet of the municipality, full of busy fruit, vegetable and plant nurseries. Here the Via Francigena enters the territory of Camaiore and offers one of the most beautiful and least known stretches of its whole Tuscan route. You ride on quiet roads and on an old road that 17th-century maps called the «via romana», the Roman road. Continuing along this charming stretch, you first pass a villa where the last Empress of Austria was born in 1892, then the Acquarella archaeological site, where the remains of a Roman farm have been unearthed. Right after that the road turns to gravel and runs along the bank of the Camaiore river. You pass the stones of a medieval mill, the Molino Cerù, skirt the small Teneri lake and, almost without noticing, you enter the historic centre of Camaiore. With this mixed surface of tarmac and gravel, gravel bikes, mountain bikes, trekking bikes or e-bikes are recommended, while road bikes with narrow tyres are not.

The main building of Villa Borbone delle Pianore in Capezzano Pianore, with its stone base, the balustraded terrace and palm trees
Villa Borbone delle Pianore, in Capezzano Pianore: Zita, the last Empress of Austria, was born here in 1892.

The Montemagno variant

For those who are not afraid of a little effort, the Montemagno variant offers four kilometres of gentle climbing that end with a breathtaking view over the whole valley down to the sea, and a drinking fountain ready to refresh whoever conquers the top. In this full version the route becomes 18 kilometres one way with 300 metres of climbing (compared with 60-80 for the basic version) and takes about two hours with stops. It is ideal in spring and autumn, when the countryside is green and the light is soft.

Keep this last variant in mind if you want to take on the next route, the one to Pitoro, because that is where we will start from.

Route 3: climbing to the Pitoro viewpoint and back on a loop

  • Level: medium-hard
  • Setting: hills and mountains

If you feel a bit like Marco Pantani, if you are a trained cyclist or are preparing for a gran fondo, you can link up with the third route starting from Montemagno (the finishing point of the previous one). This stretch of medium difficulty takes about 2.5 hours and covers about 20 kilometres on tarmac, from Montemagno back to Lido di Camaiore: together with the previous route it closes a loop of about 40 kilometres with about 400 metres of climbing, and road bikes, gravel bikes or e-bikes with a full battery are ideal. Past the village of Montemagno, the road allows a short breather before it starts climbing again along the crest of the hill, on the Canipaletti road. You keep climbing on gradients that are never too steep until you reach Pitoro, on Monte Pitoro, at about 230 metres above sea level. Pitoro is a small hamlet in the municipality of Massarosa surrounded by olive groves, where at a single glance you take in the golden waters of Lake Massaciuccoli, the Versilia coast and the green mass of the Apuan Alps behind you.

The descent to Massarosa and the way back

From here, the way back goes down towards Massarosa, through Pieve a Elici, on about four kilometres of descent full of hairpin bends, where you need to watch your speed. At the bottom you are back on the plain of Massarosa, and from there to Lido di Camaiore it is an easy, relaxing ride through the countryside. To make the most of this route it is best to set off early, since after 11 am the SP1 and the climbs are in full sun, and to wear lights and a high-visibility top because of the weekend traffic on the provincial road between Camaiore and Montemagno.

The houses of Massarosa among the olive trees seen from the hills, with the plain and Lake Massaciuccoli in the background
Massarosa from the hills, with Lake Massaciuccoli in the background.

Lido di Camaiore, the right base for a cycling holiday

In the warm season the days are long, so once you are back from your ride there is still plenty of time to enjoy yourself. What matters is having the right base, such as Hotel La Vela, very comfortable and well located. Honestly, this is a kind of holiday we are happy to recommend, to those it suits of course, for all the good things it brings. If your bike is a companion that follows you everywhere, put it in the car; otherwise it is very easy to rent one here in town. We look forward to welcoming you: click here to check availability.

Frequently asked questions

Do you need to be fit to cycle in Lido di Camaiore?

No. The coastal cycle path is flat, with practically no climbing, and is suitable for families with children too: northwards it leads to Forte dei Marmi past Parco della Versiliana, southwards to the Viareggio Passeggiata. The climbs to Montemagno and in the Massarosa hills are for those with a bit of training, or an e-bike.

Which bike do I need for the three routes?

For the coast, city bikes and e-bikes are fine, and the route is also suitable for roller skates and scooters. For the Via Francigena, which mixes tarmac and gravel, gravel, mountain, trekking or e-bikes are recommended, while road bikes with narrow tyres are not. For the hills, all on tarmac, road bikes, gravel bikes or e-bikes with a full battery are ideal.

How long does it take to cycle from Lido di Camaiore to Forte dei Marmi and Viareggio?

Forte dei Marmi is about 10 km away along the cycle path, including the detour to Parco della Versiliana: there and back is about 21 km, 2 hours with stops. The Viareggio Passeggiata begins a kilometre and a half from the hotel; riding its full length there and back is about 10 km, in an hour.

Can you rent a bike in Lido di Camaiore?

Yes, there are several bike rental shops in town. And if your bike is your travel companion, you can simply bring it with you in the car.

When is the best time for the hill routes?

Spring and autumn, when the countryside is green and the light is soft. In summer it is best to set off early, because after 11 am the provincial road and the climbs are in full sun. Hotel La Vela is open from Easter to October.

Distances, climbing and times are approximate and calculated from Hotel La Vela (viale E. Pistelli 45): they may vary depending on the variant you choose, your fitness and your stops.

Photo credits: the photos of the Forte dei Marmi pier (Ingo Mehling, CC BY-SA 4.0), the Gran Caffè Margherita (Sailko) and Massarosa (LigaDue, both CC BY 3.0) and Villa Borbone delle Pianore (9002Jack, CC0) come from Wikimedia Commons and have been resized. The featured photo is by Hotel La Vela.

M. Essence

Written by

M. Essence

M. Essence writes the guides on the Hotel La Vela blog: Versilia as told by people who live it every day, with distances, opening times and tips checked in person. Welcoming and advising guests is the best part of hotel life.

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