Everyone knows Lido di Camaiore for its long beaches, sunshine and the lively atmosphere of Versilia. Yet beyond the beautiful sea, this area has a surprising hinterland with plenty to offer its visitors.
Just get in the car and drive for about half an hour towards Casoli to leave the coast behind and enter a completely different world, surrounded by the mountain scenery of the imposing Apuan Alps, whose highest peaks reach almost 2,000 metres. The change from the plain to the mountains brings a welcome breath of fresh air, ideal for anyone looking for a break from the summer heat.
In short
- From Lido di Camaiore to Casoli: about 17 km from Hotel La Vela, roughly 25-35 minutes by car, depending on traffic.
- What to see in the village: sgraffito artworks carved into plaster, telling stories of local people, trades and myths.
- For Grotta all’Onda: continue to Tre Scolli and walk for about 1-1.5 hours each way; allow 2-3 hours of walking in total, plus stops.
- Difficulty: a hiking trail with steep drops in places and a final uphill section, unsuitable for pushchairs.
- What to bring: walking shoes, water, layers and a torch; check the weather and trail conditions before setting off.
From beaches to peaks: the Apuan Alps just inland from the sea
We are talking about the rugged Apuan Alps, a distinctive mountain range running through northwestern Tuscany. These mountains have densely wooded slopes and rich marble deposits, the same stone that has supplied artists such as Michelangelo for centuries. Here, sea and mountains share wonderful views: from the beach you can admire the Apuan peaks, while from the summits your gaze stretches across the Versilia coast and the sea. It is a harmonious combination that makes a holiday feel complete: the wide, flat expanse of the beach gives way to mysterious caves and wooded paths, while the blue of the sea finds an echo in mountain pools and streams.
Preparing for a walk in the hills of Versilia: practical tips
We suggest a rewarding outing to explore these hills and discover another side of Versilia. One small but useful tip: when heading from the beach towards the mountains, wear layers and bring a fleece or a light windproof jacket, as temperatures at altitude tend to be noticeably lower than on the coast. There are historic paths along the route, but the walk to the cave needs care: after the aqueduct there is a footbridge and an uphill stretch over rocky ground. You need to be sure-footed and take account of the abilities of everyone walking with you.
To enjoy the walk comfortably, wear hiking shoes with a good grip, essential on sections that can be damp. Pack plenty of water, an energy snack for the climb and a torch, as well as a fully charged phone. Respect any barriers at the archaeological site and keep out of blocked passages. Before leaving, check the weather and updates on the Sei Versilia trail page, in Italian.
Casoli, the village of graffiti: art and sgraffito near Camaiore
Among the most evocative places in this area is Casoli, a small hillside village with an unexpected surprise. Known as the “village of graffiti”, it offers visitors a delightful display of decorated walls. The tradition is linked to the painter and sculptor Rosario Murabito, who lived and worked in Casoli from 1954 to 1972 and created the first sgraffito in the village square. Since 2006, the Sgraffiti a Casoli festival has continued that legacy with new works on the village walls.
How sgraffito is made
These are different from the murals commonly seen in towns and cities: they use an ancient, refined technique known as sgraffito. The wall is covered with several layers of plaster in different colours, which are then scratched while still fresh. Removing the surface reveals the shades underneath, bringing the image to life through an interplay of relief and colour. As you walk through the lanes, you can admire striking examples close up: Narcissus looking at his reflection beside the old washhouse, portraits and scenes of everyday life celebrating the people and trades of Casoli. The map of the sgraffito artworks will help you find them during your walk.
Walking to Grotta all’Onda: a natural spectacle in the Apuan Alps
This charming village is more than an appealing stop: it is also an ideal starting point for a visit to the spectacular Grotta all’Onda. For the shorter walk, start on foot at Tre Scolli, above Casoli, and return along the same trail. Allow about two to three hours of walking for the round trip, plus time to visit the cave and take breaks. Circular routes follow different paths and need to be planned separately.
You reach an imposing natural cave on the slopes of Monte Matanna, at about 710 metres above sea level. It measures roughly 40 by 60 metres and has a low entrance, with small waterfalls flowing from the rock above like natural showers. The amount of water varies with rainfall and the season. The cave’s name comes from the distinctive shape of the upper edge of its outer roof, which resembles a large sea wave just about to break.
Prehistoric life at Grotta all’Onda: from Neanderthals to more recent times
Alongside its natural beauty, Grotta all’Onda is an archaeological site of great value, studied through numerous excavations and research projects. The cave preserves evidence of human presence from prehistoric to more recent times. Some of the oldest and most significant finds date to the time of the Neanderthals and show how Stone Age hunters used the cave as shelter. Discoveries from its different periods of occupation include bone and flint tools, pottery fragments and even human remains, now preserved and displayed at the Civic Archaeological Museum of Camaiore.
How to reach Casoli and Grotta all’Onda from Lido di Camaiore
Drive from Lido di Camaiore towards Camaiore, then follow the scenic hillside road to Casoli. From Hotel La Vela it is about 17 km, taking roughly 25-35 minutes by car, depending on traffic. After a stop to admire the village’s famous sgraffito artworks, continue up to Tre Scolli and park where permitted, keeping access to the houses clear.
From Tre Scolli, initially follow the CAI 106 route towards San Rocchino, then take the signposted turn for Grotta all’Onda along the aqueduct. After the footbridge, the trail climbs towards the cave. Allow about an hour, or an hour and a half at a relaxed pace. Return to Tre Scolli along the same route.
For more ideas between the coast and the villages, see our guide to what to see in Lido di Camaiore and our three routes for exploring the area by bike.
Where to stay in Lido di Camaiore: Hotel La Vela
After a day of adventure, you will probably want a comfortable place to recharge for your next outing. Our Hotel La Vela in Lido di Camaiore is a three-star hotel in a convenient location on Viale Pistelli, right on the seafront.
Here you will find welcoming rooms with everything you need to relax, a delicious breakfast to start the day with fresh energy, and the convenience of stepping outside just a short walk from the beach, or setting off again to discover the wonders of Versilia.
To plan your break between the beach and the Apuan Alps, check availability and prices or write to us: we will be happy to help you choose your stay and your outings.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Casoli from Lido di Camaiore?
From Hotel La Vela on the seafront, Casoli is about 17 km away by car, via Camaiore. Allow roughly 25-35 minutes, with extra time when traffic is busy.
How long does the walk to Grotta all’Onda take?
From Tre Scolli, allow about 1-1.5 hours each way and 2-3 hours in total to walk there and back along the same trail, plus stops. A longer circular route needs different planning.
Is the trail to Grotta all’Onda suitable for children?
It depends on their walking experience and the trail conditions. There are steep drops in places, a footbridge and a final rocky climb, so close supervision and a sure footing are needed. The route is unsuitable for pushchairs.
Why is Casoli called the village of graffiti?
Because of the artworks on its walls, made by scratching through layers of differently coloured plaster using the sgraffito technique. The tradition is linked to Rosario Murabito and has continued through the Sgraffiti a Casoli festival, founded in 2006.
What should I bring for the walk from Tre Scolli?
Hiking shoes with good grip, water, a snack, layers, a light jacket and a torch. Bring a charged phone too, and check the weather before setting off.
Information checked on 22 October 2026. Driving distances and times are estimates from Hotel La Vela using OpenStreetMap data; walking times depend on pace, stops and trail conditions. Check local updates before your walk.
Photo credits: Casoli, Naioli; Grotta all’Onda, Brachistocrone 21; Forte dei Marmi pier and the Apuan Alps, Ingo Mehling. Photographs from Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0, resized. Room photograph: Hotel La Vela archive.
Written by
M. Essence
M. Essence writes the guides on the Hotel La Vela blog: Versilia as told by people who live it every day, with distances, opening times and tips checked in person. Welcoming and advising guests is the best part of hotel life.
